Valve clearance checking should be conducted after the engine has been stopped and the coolant temperature falls to below 60℃. This is the pat 1 for diesel engine maintenance. In other posts, the engine troubleshooting guidelines information will be provided. (1) Remove the nut on the valve cover and scrap the cover and scrap the seals and gaskets (2) Rotate the engine and make the piston of No. 1 cylinder position at the top dead center on the compression stroke. Note: When the indicator 11 0n the flywheel housing points at mark o in the flywheel viewed from the observing window on the flywheel housing plate 9, the piston of N0 1 0r No. 6 cylinder is at the top dead center. (3) Check if the rocker arms of No.l cylinder are loose. If they are loose, the piston of No. 1 cylinder is at the top dead center on compression stroke; if not. the piston of No. 6 cylinder is at the top dead center on compression stroke. (4) When the piston of No.l cylinder is at the TDC on compression stroke, check with a feeler gauge the intake valve clearances of No. 1, 2, 4, 9, 11 and 12 cylinders, as well as the exhaust valve clearances of No.l, 3, 5, 8, 9 and 12 cylinders; when the piston of No.6 cylinder is at the TDC an compression stroke, check with a feeler gauge the intake valve clearances of No. 3, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 10 cylinders, as well as the exhaust valve clearances of No. 2, 4, 6, 7, 10 and 11 cylinders; Note: The clearance is correct when some resistance is felt at which the feeler gauge is slipped between a valve stem and a rocker arm. (5) If a valve clearance fails to meet the requirement, loosen the adjusting screw locknut on the corresponding rocker arm, adjust the clearance to the specified value and tighten the locknut t0 50 - 60 N-m. Check the valve clearance again and it should not change. Valve clearance: 0.30 - 0.35 mm 0.35 - 0.40 mm (6) Mark a sign on the damper and rotate the crankshaft for a circle (360 degrees). Follow the same steps to adjust the rest intake and exhaust valve clearances. (7) Install the valve cover with new seals and gaskets and tighten the cover nuts t0 10-15 N-m. 5.3.18 Checking intercooler and its lines. Perform visual check on the air inlet and outlet chambers of the intercooler for crack, perforation or other damages, and on the air inlet and outlet pipes of the intercooler for sealing-off and other damages. Replace the intercooler if necessary. Perform visual check on the hoses of the air inlet and outlet pipes for crack, and check clamps for looseness. Replace the hose(s) if any fault is found, and tighten clamp screws if looseness is found. 5.3.19 Checking fan bearing Remove the drive belt. Turn the fan to check the fan bearing for normality. When rotating the fan, there should be no vibration or excessive axial or/and radial movement. Replace the fan hub if necessary. 5.3.20 Checking turbocharger Perform visual check on the impeller blades of the turbine and compressor of the turbocharger for damage, crack, or contact with their housings when a light finger pressure applied on them. And check the turbocharger shaft for not being free spinning. In case that any of the above problems occur, the turbocharger should be replaced. 5.3.21 Checking vibration damper Check the vibration damper for damping fluid (silicon fluid) leak and surface dents. Also examine the thickness of damper to confirm if the damper has become deformed. In case that any of the above problems occur, the damper should be replaced. 5.3.22 Changing coolant and cleaning cooling system In order to ensure the engine coolant to be good in cooling and anti corrosion, the replacement of coolant and cleaning of cooling system are required every 2,000 hours or 2 years, whichever comes first. Warning: At operating temperature, engine coolant is hot and under pressure, and coolant steam can cause personal injury. Do not remover the pressure cap on the radiator until the engine stops and coolant temperature goes below 50'C. Slowly unscrew the pressure cap to release the cooling system pressure. Warning: The anti rust additive in the coolant contains alkali. Avoid skin and eye contact with it to prevent personal injury. (1) Stop the engine and wait until the temperature of the coolant falls to below 50'C. Slowly unscrew the pressure cap to release the cooling system pressure and remove the cap. Loosen the drain cock of the radiator to completely drain the coolant in the radiator. (2) Loosen the drain cocks of the oil coolers (one on each engine side), remove the water drain plugs of the water pumps (one on each engine side) to drain the coolant in the engine cooling system. (3) Clean the cooling system according to the following steps. (a) Install and screw up all the drain cocks and plugs, and add the sodium carbonate solution (or the mixture of sodium carbonate and water that is available in market) into the cooling system from the coolant filler. Caution: Each 23 L of water should be mixed with 0.5 kg sodium carbonate. Do not use caustic cleaner, or it will do harm to aluminum parts. We supply multiple brands of generator set, such as: Cummins generator, Volvo, Deutz, Doosan Daewoo, MTU, Ricardo, Perkins, Shangchai, Weichai, Yuchai etc. The style of genset is varied, such as: container genset, trailer genset, portable trailer genset, soundproof genset, low noise genset, and silent genset, etc. Besides, we also supply design and construction of the noise reduction project up to the customer's requirements.
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4.5.1 Normal starting procedure The G series V type diesel engine can be started smoothly at temperature of -5°C and above. Starting procedure is as follows: ● Disengage the diesel engine from the drive system. . ● Put the mechanical operating devices into the 'running' position. ● Push the governor controlling handle to unloaded position with speed at about 900 r/min. ● Insert electric key and turn the switch from the OFF position to the START position to start the engine.if it cannot be started up in 10 seconds, turn the switch from the START position to the OFF position. Make another starting after 2 minutes. If the engine cannot be started up for three times, stop starting and refer to Section 6 for troubleshooting guideline to find cause. Each starting lasts 2 to 3 seconds. Caution: The engine should be started without load. ● After the engine has started up, the switch key goes back to the ON operation from the START position automatically. The oil pressure gauge should show reading within 15 seconds after the engine has started up; otherwise, stop the engine immediately to prevent damage to the engine and find the causes and remove the fault(s) according to Section 6 Troubleshooting Guidelines. ● Having started up from a hot state, the engine should run at idle for l-3 minutes before being accelerated and loaded gradually. . ● Having started up from a cold state, the engine should run at idle for 3-5 minutes. Increase engine speed slowly to 1,500 r/min and run the engine with partial load. Do not run the engine with full load until the outlet coolant temperature is higher than 75°C, oil temperature 50°C and oil pressure 0.40 MPa. Caution: Especially starting the engine from a cold stat, increase the engine speed slowly as far as possible to have every bearing adequately lubricated and oil pressure stable. ● Check the instruments during the engine running at idle to see whether they work normally. Caution: Do not accelerate and load the engine immediately after it has been started up. Caution: Do not idle the engine for a long period of time or it can cause problems to the engine. When an engine idles, the temperature in combustion chamber is low and combustion is not complete. It can cause carbon deposit in cylinder resulting in block of the orifices of fuel injector, as well as seizures of piston rings and valves, thus leading to engine performance deterioration. Caution: If the engine is start by a jumper cable, parallel connection of the cable should be adopted by connecting the positive pole to the positive terminal and the negative pole to the negative terminal. If the engine is start by external power supply, the circuit breaker should be set to the OFF position. Take out the key to prevent accidental activation before connecting a jumper cable. 4.5.2 Cold Start Cold start refers to starting the engine at temperature -50°C. Choose proper cold starting aid to warm the engine according to ambient temperature and then follow the normal starting procedures to start the engine. There are, in general, several ways to warm the engine: ● Warming the engine oil and coolant to 40-50°C; ● Installing a heating device in the air inlet pipe or heating air by fire at the entrance of the air inlet pipe, with which special precaution must be paid for safety; ● Increasing the surrounding temperature of the engine room; ● Using diesel fuel, engine oil and coolant that are suitable for cold areas; ● Warming battery or using battery of larger capacity or having higher discharge rate (special battery for low temperature). 4.5.3 Staring after a longtime stop or replacement of lubricating oil If the engine hasn't been used for less than 30 days or its engine oil has just been replaced, it is necessary to fill the lubricating system with oil. Crank the engine and make oil enter moving parts. Start the engine only after you feel light when cranking the engine. Finish the following preparation before starting the engine according to the procedures of normal starting or cold starting: ● Check the oil level for being within the dipstick marks range. ● Check the voltage of the battery for abnormality. ● Prime the fuel system. Refer to Section 5.3 for operation. ● In order to have a quick starting of a standby engine for emergency need, start the engine every three to five days and operate it until its engine oil and coolant temperatures reach 60'C and above. 4.6 Engine Operation Cautions for operation of the engine: ● Pay frequent attention to oil pressure and coolant temperature. In case of any abnormality, stop the engine immediately for inspection. Lubricating oil pressure: 150 kPa @ idle speed (minimum allowable) 300 kPa @ rated speed (minimum allowable) 500 kPa @ rated speed (maximum allowable) Coolant temperature: 75-95°C (normal working range) ● When engine overheating starts to happen that is indicated by the coolant temperature alarming, reduce engine speed or load or take the both actions until the coolant temperature falls down into the normal range; otherwise, find the cause and remove the fault as per Section 6 Troubleshooting Guidelines. ● During the operation, especially sudden decrease of load, attention should be paid to avoid the failure of the governor, which can cause sudden increase of engine speed exceeding the defined value (usually called flying away). Once such case happens, make an emergency stop first and then check for the cause. Caution: Over-speed running will cause serious damage to the engine. There are significant signs before most engine faults occur, such as changes in performance, sound, or engine appearance. Listening and observing will help detect in advance or predict some problems of the engine that will occur later, with which the proper measures can be taken in time to eliminate such problems as can lead to a serious engine failure. Typical engine fault signs: Engine misrires Engine vibrates abnormally Engine sounds abnormal Engine coolant temperature and oil pressure change abruptly Engine produces black smoke Engine power output is insufficient Engine oil consumption is too much Fuel consumption is too much There is leakage of oil, fuel or/and coolant 4.7 Engine Shutdown 4.7.1 Normal shutdown If the engine has just worked at a high speed and heavy load for a long time, reduce its load and speed gradually and run it at idle for 5 minutes before stopping it to let the engine cool down evenly and turbocharger speed fall considerably so as to protect the engine and turbocharger. Turn off the fuel tank cock after the engine has stopped. If the engine will not be used for a period of time (6 months at most), keep it properly. Refer to Section 7 for engine storage. 4.7.2 Emergency shutdown Under emergency or special condition, make an emergency stop to avoid serious engine failure. Manually pulling of the emergency stop handle can achieve an emergency shutdown. In the part one of Shangchai SC27G diesel engine maintenance, we have already known how to st the detailed maintenance plan and task and methods of engine maintenance, such as checking engine periphery, checking fuel tank, checking air filter service indicator, checking oil level and so on. In this post, we are going to learn more instructions about engine maintenance like checking drive belt, cooling system, adding grease, belt tension and changing engine oil and oil filter. 5.3.8 Checking drive belt Perform visual check on the drive belt everyday for any intersecting cracks. Transverse cracks along the width direction of the belt are acceptable, while longitudinal cracks (along the length direction) that intersect with transverse cracks are not allowed. If any wear or abrasion occurs, replace it. 5.3.9 Checking cooling fan Perform visual check on the cooling fan for crack, loose rivet or blade bent or any other defect. The fan should be installed reliably. Tighten the fastening bolts or replace the damaged fan if necessary. Warning: Damaged fan blade can cause serious personal injury. Do not pull or pry the fan, and do not rotate the engine with the fan. 5.3.10 Checking intake system Check the intake hoses for any crack, as well as perforation, and clamps for looseness. Replace the hose(s) if any fault is found, and tighten clamp screw(s) if looseness is found to ensure the intake system free from leakage. 5.3.11 Adding grease Add proper amount of sodium based lubricating grease in the small hole. 5.3.12 Checking belt tension Check Apply a force of about 98 N on the middle point of the belt span between the two pulleys with finger by pressing and pulling, and check the position change of that point. The change should be within 8-12 mm. If it is out of the range, make adjustment. Adjustment (1) Unscrew the tensioner nut and screw or unscrew the adjusting bolt to adjust belt tension. (2) Tighten the tensioner nut t0 122-152 N*m. 5.3.13 Changing engine oil and oil filter Warning: Be careful when changing lubricating oil and oil filter because skin contact with the hot oil or hot engine surface can cause scald. (1) Don't stop the engine until the temperature of the coolant reaches 60℃, then remove the oil drain plug on the oil pan, scrap the washer and drain the lubricating oil. Caution: Do not drain lube oil when the engine is in cold state at which foreign particles has deposited and attached to the bottom of the oil pan, and will not drain with the oil. When the lube oil is warm, foreign particles suspend in it and can easily drain with it. (2) Clean the installation surface of the oil drain plug on the oil pan. Install the drain plug with sealant Tonsan 1567F and tighten it t0 60 -70 N*m. (3) Clean the outside surface of the oil filter. Remove the oil filter with tool and scrap it. There are two oil filters (over the oil cooler on each engine side) and both two should be replaced at the same time. (4) Clean the seal surface of the filter head, and there should be no old O-ring left. (5) Do not fill the new filters with clean oil. Only apply a light film of Vaseline or clean lubricating oil to the O-rings on the new filters to form a lubricating film before installation. (6) Turn the filter by hand until the O-ring contacts the sealed surface of the filter head, and further tighten it t0 45 t 5 N*m or 3/4 to one of a turn with tool. (7) Open the filler cap (near the lower part of the cylinder block), and fill the engine with clean lubricating oil until the oil level is near the high level mark in the oil dipstick. The lubricating system capacity is about 65 L and oil pan capacity about 42 L. (8) Start the engine and keep it running at idle, and then check the oil filter and drain plug for oil leak. (9) Check the oil level at idle or low speed. If required, add engine oil until it is near the dynamic high level mark (the mark 2) in the oil dipstick. (10) Install the filler cap and tighten it until you feel suitable. 5.3.14 Changing fuel filter (second stage) (1) Clean the outside surfaces of the fuel filters (two filters). Remove the filters with tool and scrap them. (2) Clean the filter heads and its seal surfaces. There should be no old O-ring left. Note: There is two fuel filter, change them at the same time. (2) Before installing a new fuel filter, fill it with clean fuel from the 8 peripheral holes. The fuel level should be 3-15 mm below the threaded hole. Apply a light film of Vaseline or clean lubricating oil on the O-ring on the new filter to form a lubricating film. Caution: Do not add fuel from the central hole of the filter. {4) Screw the filter by hand until the O-ring contacts the seal surface of the filter head, and further tighten it to 45± 5 N?*m or 3/4 to one of a tum with tool. 5.3.15 Replacing fuel filter (first stage) The first stage fuel filter is also spin-on type. Refer to "Changing fuel filter (second stage)" for replacement procedure Refer to the instruction on the filter for the removal directions of the filter and water container. We supply multiple brands of generator set, such as: Cummins generator, Volvo, Deutz, Doosan Daewoo, MTU, Ricardo, Perkins, Shangchai, Weichai, Yuchai etc. The style of genset is varied, such as: container genset, trailer genset, portable trailer genset, soundproof genset, low noise genset, and silent genset, etc. Besides, we also supply design and construction of the noise reduction project up to the customer's requirements. It’s a message that has been steered at drivers for years: Change your engine oil every 3,000 miles. Mechanics say you could be damaging your engine if you don’t. Yet Consumer Reports says it’s a waste of money. So who is right? Read more: Why you shouldn’t let your gas tank run below 1/4 full Driving in hot traffic? You need more frequent oil changes To reconcile the varying points of view, you’ve got to consult your owner’s manual and use a little bit of common sense. Most owner’s manuals for newer vehicles will tell you it’s acceptable to go 5,000 miles between oil changes under normal conditions. But you should drop to 3,000 miles if you drive under severe conditions. Severe driving conditions can take a toll on just about every part of your car — both inside and out. But what exactly are severe conditions? AAA defines them as the following: Driving on short trips of less than five miles in normal temperatures or less than 10 miles in freezing temperatures. Driving in hot weather stop-and-go traffic. Driving at low speeds of less than 50 miles per hour for long distances. Driving on roads that are dusty, muddy or have salt, sand or gravel spread on the surface. Towing a trailer, carrying a camper (if a pickup truck) or transporting items on a roof rack or in a car-top carrier. Making “jack rabbit” stops and starts — the kind people tend to do when racing from traffic light to traffic light. If you’re just driving back and forth to work during the week, and to soccer fields and baseball games during the weekend, then there’s really no sense in changing your oil every 3,000 miles. A couple of years, a Consumer Reports study put the brakes on the myth of the 3,000-mile oil change. They found no noticeable difference in engine protection whether you changed the oil every 3,000 or 7,500 miles. Ultimately, this one has to be a personal decision. Maybe you’re comfortable changing every 3,000 miles and think 7,500 is too long to wait. Then why not split the difference and do it every 5,000 or so miles? You’ll be saving about a third by going those extra miles between oil changes. Experts say a $20 oil change is the best preventative maintenance you can do. So the interval is really up to you as long as you don’t exceed what’s recommended in your owner’s manual. Oil is vital to your car’s health and longevity. It circulates throughout your engine, reducing friction between moving parts and carrying off heat, varnishes and carbons—things that can lower your car’s performance. Oil also contains additives that clean dirty engine parts, prevent oil sludge from building up, stop oil from breaking down under high temperatures, stop rust and corrosion and improve flow (viscosity). How often should you change your oil? The old guideline was every 3 months or 3,000 miles. But with today’s advanced oil chemistry and engine technology, oil change frequency is changing. It’s not uncommon now for car owners to change the oil in their cars or trucks every 7,500 or 10,000 miles. Longer intervals between changes are not only easier on your wallet, but also on the environment—as there’s less dirty waste oil to dispose of. Nevertheless, check your owner’s manual and don’t go beyond the carmaker’s recommended interval. What if you never change your oil? The more heat, varnish and carbons that oil collects, the less effective it becomes. If not changed, it will eventually degrade into sludge, which can clog up your engine and wear out your pistons. Repairing that kind of damage is a lot more expensive than a simple oil change. There are many benefits that a diesel engine can bring to users and the machine. Comparing to the gas engine, diesel engine is more preferred by users. Why diesel engine is so popular? Read this post and you will know. Diesel cars justifiably have a great reputation for excellent fuel economy and low impact on the environment. This essentially is a result of the diesel operating cycle being thermodynamically more efficient than the petrol engine. Put more simply, more energy is converted into useful work and less energy in the form of heat which is transmitted to the cooling system and subsequently to the atmosphere. This means that a diesel engine in a similar sized vehicle is much more fuel efficient in terms of kilometres per litre than a petrol engine. This characteristic of higher thermodynamic efficiency with less heat going into the cooling system means that a diesel engine takes longer to reach the most efficient operating temperature and requires a higher engine load to maintain that temperature. This means that a diesel engine is more suited to longer distance driving at higher vehicle speeds or loads. If a diesel engine is not driven at its optimum operating temperature then its fuel and environmental efficiency significantly deteriorates. In a nutshell, the diesel engine in a passenger car is not suitable for short trips at low loads in a city environment i.e. one or two passengers travelling to the shops and back. One of the reasons why a diesel engine is more fuel-efficient is because it operates at higher pressures than a petrol engine. This means that structurally the engine needs to be significantly stronger than a petrol engine. This is why a Boxer engine is particularly suitable for use as a diesel engine, because the engine crankshaft, that carries the majority of engine load and pressure, is provided with a high level of support by being sandwiched between the two halves of the crankcase. Never the less, even a Boxer diesel engine structure and its fuel delivery system that injects fuel directly into the high pressure combustion chamber needs to be manufactured with higher levels of strength and durability. This means that a diesel engine is typically approximately $3000 more expensive than a petrol engine and therefore to recover this increased capital cost longer driving with higher kilometres per year are required. Fuel savings however are significant with fuel efficiency typically being 25-35% better than a petrol engine vehicle and given sufficient use (kilometres) the increased capital cost can be recovered with significant savings made. As an example, let’s look at the model year 2012 Forester X and 2.0D, using the published combined cycle fuel consumption figures of 9.3 litres per 100 km and 6.0 litres per 100km respectively. At 25,000km per year it will take 3 years to cover the increased purchase price of the diesel engine at a 2011-12 national average fuel price1 of 144.1 cents per litre for petrol and 150.5 cents for diesel. After this has been achieved your fuel bills will be 33% cheaper. Historically the diesel engine was also considered to be lacking power and driveability in a passenger car, however the modern passenger diesel engine is almost indistinguishable from the performance of a petrol engine. This is due to advances in electronics and computer management systems that have enabled more precise control of the combustion process and the adoption of turbochargers to increase the power output and responsiveness of the diesel engine while retaining its advantages of fuel efficiency and environmental performance. As stated in the introduction, a diesel engine is also generally considered to be more environmentally friendly than a petrol engine. This is very true in terms of hydrocarbon (HC), and Carbon monoxide (CO) emissions that are approximately 38% and 60% respectively lower than a petrol engine2. However, a diesel engine also produces significantly more particulate emission (black soot) under certain operating conditions such as cold start, acceleration, high load and when driven at less that full operating temperature. These soot particles are microscopically small (0.09mm) which the human respiratory system is unable able to filter so they can enter the lungs and pose a serious health hazard. This is why the modern diesel engine uses a special filter to capture 95% of these soot particles. This filter known as a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) automatically cleans itself by burning the captured soot particles. To be able to do this, however, its temperature needs to be in the region of 550 to 700 oC. Urban driving at light throttle results in exhaust temperatures typically in the range of 150 to 200 oC and so with this type of continual driving the DPF is unable to clean itself and it can become blocked. To help alleviate this situation the DPF is subjected to computer controlled regenerative processes that raise the combustion temperature to force drive the DPF burning process. However, these regenerative processes also require an engine operating temperature that is not sustainable in a continued urban driving environment. When this situation occurs the driver is warned via a warning light to drive the vehicle at a higher speed & load to raise the exhaust temperature so the DPF can burn the soot particles. Failure to do so will ultimately result in the DPF becoming blocked. If this happens it will possibly be necessary to replace the DPF at a significant cost (thousands of dollars). So again it is clear that a diesel engine vehicle requires a driving style and method of use that is only suitable for longer distances and higher loads! If this is your particular method of use and you travel high kilometres then a diesel engine vehicle is particularly suitable due to the fuel efficiency and environmental performance. But if you normally travel short distances then a petrol engine is a better choice. When you turn the ignition key to the on position, the light will illuminate for a few seconds and then go out. You can then safely start your car by turning the key to the start position. Diesel engines work a little differently from petrol (gas) engines. In a regular gas engine, the fuel and air are mixed in the cylinder, the piston compresses the mixture and at just the right time, a spark of electricity ignites the mixture. Diesel engines don’t have sparks. There are no spark plugs. Instead, the diesel engine uses high compression to ignite the fuel. The compression on its own causes enough heat to ignite it diesel and air mixture in the cylinder. However, the heat of the engine is also a factor in the fuel ignition. If the engine is hot, then the fuel will ignite at a lower compression compared to cold. If the fuel ignites too early, it would cause the engine to knock and this can damage the engine. So the engine is setup to run when hot. This creates an issue for starting the car. If the engine is cold, it won’t get to the ignition point when compressed. To solve this, diesel cars have a small heating coil, called a glow plug, which warms up the cylinder for a few seconds before the engine is turned over. This ensures that the fuel ignites and the engine starts properly. What happens if you don’t wait? Many diesels will still start even if they are cold. Even though you didn’t wait, the glow plug will have warmed a little bit and it might catch. However, the car might just refuse to start. You might end up flooding the engine (too much fuel in the cylinder) which might prevent you form starting the car immediately. Diesel engines rely on the air in the combustion chamber being heated to a temperature high enough to ignite the fuel when it is injected. Once they are running this heat is produced by the compression of the air in the cylinder as the piston rises during the compression stroke of the cycle, added to the overall warmth of the engine. That’s why the alternative name for these machines is compression-ignition engine. But when the engine is cold, most diesels need some help igniting the fuel. Two techniques are used, often together in very cold weather. First, the combustion chamber can be heated by a small electrical heater (often called a glow plug) before starting is attempted; second, an easily ignited fuel (such as ether) can be added to the air being drawn into the cylinder as the starter is operated. In extreme cold, more extreme measures may be needed. In Antarctica, we used special heaters to warm the whole engine to a temperature of perhaps -20C before attempting a start. The warning light on the dashboard in a modern diesel car is typically a picture of a coil with a few turns. It comes on when the glow plugs are turned on, and goes off when the computer decides the engine is ready to start. On my VW TDI I usually see the warning light for less than a second. But I live in Texas, where really cold weather is rare. I don’t think you will cause a problem with the engine if you don’t wait until the light goes out, but you will have to crank the engine longer, which might flatten the battery, and eventually could wear out the starter. If a Diesel engine has Glowplugs for Cold Start purposes eg you are in the middle of winter then some engines may have a system that activates these heaters to aid starting. You will need to read the owners book to determine how cold start works on your particular model. Here in Australia where it does not get that cold, I simply turn the key and start the engine (Hyundai i30 Diesel). Some Diesel engines use fuel enrichment to aid cold starting and it will blow dark smoke for a few seconds on starting similar to older Petrol engines when you used a manual choke or a improperly set autochoke. The only delay that may be recommended and applies to all turbocharged engines whether it be Petrol or Diesel is if you have been driving hard and you stop at your destination then you should allow the the turbocharger to slow down and cool before turning the engine off. Some engines provide for this by having a gravity oil supply to the turbocharger or have a delayed turn off or have an auxilary pump to pump oil through the turbocharger for a timed period. Diesel engines are not spark ignition engines, they are compression ignition engines. This means that they use compression to heat up the air in the cilinder to the point that the atomized diesel fuel (which is directly injected into the cilinder at the optimal time, just like a spark ignition engine, minus the spark. some older engines used inderect injection, but most modern diesels use direct injection) spontaneously combusts. This is fine for warmer temperatures, but in really cold weather the compression will actually not be adequate to reach auto-ignition temperatures, so some engiens use glow plugs to heat the air inside the cylinder so it's easier to reach the higher temperatures, but some engines use grid heaters to heat the air coming into the engine for the same effect. If you don't let things heat up adequately you can end up with an engine that is only firing on a few cylinders, which is no good, and that little light on the dash is on when the grid heater/glow plugs are on, and subsequently shuts of when the grid heater/glow plugs do. Hope this helps. Installing diesel engine is an important part for engine operation. No matter what will you use the engine for, the first thing is to install it on the machine you want to use. Installation of diesel engine is not an easy thing that everyone can do. How to install engine properly is a point for many users to learn. Moreover, properly installing engine is crucial because any mistaken installation step could lead to engine damage and personal hurt. One of the largest challenges of the engine re-manufacturing business is often associated with improper engine installation. We all know that everyone reads all of the literature that comes with each remain engine – right? Even after reading all of the paperwork technicians still seem to find creative ways to damage the engines performance and longevity. Enough humor – this article will discuss basic diesel engine installation and how you can prevent premature engine failures. Imagine the most beautiful remanufactured diesel engine that you have ever seen arrive at your dock in a crate that is packaged to perfection. A technician unwraps the engine and sets it on the ground that is covered in oil dry. He takes the gasket box and sets it on an oily workbench where he was just machining a steer axle. So much excitement – he gets the intake manifold that was laying next to the glass bead machine and gets ready to prep the engine for install. The old oil and fuel filters were just replaced on a PM fifteen hours before the engine failed so the technician decides to re-use them. It’s a shame to throw them away they still have life left in them. All that’s left is the can of dirty off-road diesel that will be poured into the fuel tank with a funnel that was laying on the floor covered with oil dry. She’s ready to fire! Hopefully you understand the shop humor - but sometimes this is not far from the truth. Here is a list of critical installation points. Remember that this is a list of basics and intended to be used as a guide. Check for freight damages and get setup in a clean area with the engine specifications supplied by your remanufacturer. Check to ensure that the engine’s application is correct prior to bolting on accessories. Bolt patterns on the block and crankshaft flange, crank shaft snout, PTO setup, oil galley and freeze plugs, oil pan configuration, etc. Clean both manifolds and check for cracks and warpage when applicable. Do not overtorque. Do not glass bead! Clean and flush the fuel filer housing and lines. Dirty fuel/components can instantly clog the fuel injectors and cause black smoke on startup. Check fuel lines from tank to pump for cracks or crimps. Check transfer or lift pump for proper pressure if not supplied by your remanufacturer. Replace all air, fuel, oil and crankcase filters. Clean the air filter housing and hoses. Check for cracks and for proper sealing of the air filter. Flush or replace the oil cooler if applicable. Ideally you should replace the oil cooler because it is difficult to be sure that all oil contaminates are removed. Recore or replace the radiator and test. Replace the oil pressure sending unit. Adjust the clutch to the proper free pedal before starting. Check the crankshaft end play before and after installing the transmission. • It is up to the technician to prevent thrust bearing failures. Excessive main bearing thrust wear can be caused by the following: - Clutch not adjusted properly - Pilot shaft or torque converter interference with the crankshaft - Blockage and/or restriction of the transmission oil cooler Replace the belts, hoses and motor mounts. Service and inspect the starter, alternator, etc. Install and properly torque flywheel bolts. Over torquing can distort the crankshaft flange on one piece rear main seal designs. Do not use an impact. Upon startup NEVER use engine starting fluid. Check oil pressure and coolant flow in the radiator. If oil pressure is not found in ten seconds of startup stop the engine and inspect the oiling system. Prior to starting the engine - follow the procedures outlined in the engine’s service manual to prime the fuel system. Operating the injection pump dry can cause pump failure. Bleed all of the air out of the fuel system by cracking the injector lines. Run the engine at throttle and at no load until it reaches operating temperature. Verify that no leaks are present and that the cooling system is working properly. Runaround and load test the unit. After the engine has heat cycled check the valve lash and re-torque the cylinder head bolts if practical. Finish assembly of the truck and it’s ready to ship Don’t ruin that ReMaN. Follow these simple steps and you will have quicker and more profitable diesel engine installations. If you would like to discuss this topic, need engine specifications or have any ideas for future articles please feel free to give us a call 877/303-LIFT(5438) ext 2. Above is the tips for installing engine correctly. Do follow all tips one by one in order to avoid damages and personal hurt. Engine building can be dangerous regardless of what style engine you're dealing with, but even more can go wrong while building performance engines. This video shows just how disastrous those problems can be. This video was uploaded by Bruce Wilson, whose YouTube channel is filled with insightful analysis of all things engine-related. Wilson walks through why a triple turbo Cummins diesel would randomly explode while dyno testing. The engine was produced by D&J Precision Machine and Firepunk Diesel; both garages are based out of Ohio. "These guys test everything to the absolute limits," Wilson said in the video. "They have broke [sic] records, they have done absolutely amazing things." The video went viral on Reddit, and thanks to that thread, we know that the engine was pushing out 145 psi and more than 2,000 horsepower. And then it exploded. "They just, if they haven't done it, then no one has. They pushed this thing to the absolute max," Wilson noted when talking more about the engine's builders at D&J Precision Machine. "I can't imagine the amount of money lost on this thing." There are plenty of videos on the internet of blown engines losing a connecting rod or gasket head. There are even some like this video from 1320 Speed & Kustom on YouTube that shows the engine blowing out flames. However, most of those videos show that a majority of the engine remains intact. This video details the demise of the whole engine block! Luckily for everyone involved, this didn't happen at the track. It happened in the relatively controlled environment of a dyno room. (For those who are not car inclined, dyno rooms are testing centers that are normally industrial noise treated specifically for engine testing in performance racing and automotive restoration.) Diesel Engine Introduced In India Japanese automaker Honda will stick to its diesel engines in the Indian market beyond 2020. Yes, Autocar India reports that the company will introduce BS-VI diesel engines in the country. Currently, Honda is developing the BS-VI compliant 1.5-litre i-DTEC 'Earth Dreams' diesel engine. The BS-VI emission norms will be implemented from 2020 in India. President and CEO, Honda Cars India, Yoichiro Ueno said that the Indian market has a high demand for diesel engine and the company cannot stop catering the customers beyond 2020. Several automakers have altered their engine strategies due to the high cost of upgrading the diesel engines to BS-VI. Upgrading the current BS-IV diesel engines to the BS-VI emission norms will involve a lot of investments. Ueno added that the BS-VI diesel engines would have a significant impact on the pricing of the diesel cars in India. With the strict emission norms coming into effect from 2020, several automakers are reluctant to offer BS-VI diesel engines as the cost involved in upgrading the oil burners will be very high. But Honda has stuck to its plan of upgrading the 1.5-litre diesel engine, but the pricing of new diesel models will be crucial in the price-sensitive Indian market. Winterizing your diesel engine(s) is a step-by-step process. When you’re done, your engine will have clean oil, stabilized fuel and a cooling system that’s either completely drained or filled with antifreeze. You will have inspected key components, covered all openings, left big reminder notes and listed all required repairs. Your engine will be ready for spring commissioning with a minimum of hassle. Your diesel marine generator also needs to be winterized, and most of the steps are the same ones you need to take to winterize your boat’s diesel propulsion engine. Easily done. Let’s get started! Stabilize the fuel Check your fuel-water separator for sediment and water, and clean or replace the elements as needed. Fill your tank 95% full with clean diesel and add a fuel stabilizer. I use Biobor JF and Star Tron Diesel Additive, as recommended by Practical Sailor. We sell lots of other excellent products like ValvTect BioGuard and STA-BIL Diesel. Run your engine to distribute the stabilizing additives throughout the fuel system. Change the oil Change the engine’s oil and replace the oil filter. Why do this now, instead of waiting until spring? Because the old, dirty oil contains contaminants and acids that will harm the engine during the lay-up. Clean oil is a must for the health of your engine. Change the oil in the transmission too, for similar reasons. Be sure to first run the engine up to operating temperature and change the oil while it’s warm. This helps drain all the contaminants and gunk away with the oil. Coat the cylinders with oil Spray some oil into the inlet manifold. Then crank the engine over a few times (without starting it) to coat the cylinder walls with oil. Winterize the cooling system Freshwater-cooled engines with a heat exchanger: Replace the coolant in the freshwater side of the system, a 50-50 mix of water and antifreeze. This is an important task to perform now, because the antifreeze contains additives to fight corrosion. While the antifreeze will not wear out, these additives do. If you’re using an antifreeze that needs to be diluted, like our Pure Oceans Antifreeze & Coolant, you should dilute it first, before adding it to your freshwater cooling system. Raw water cooling system: There are two acceptable choices. Your first alternative is to drain the entire system, being careful to not leave standing water in any low spots. Draining an engine must be thorough, as small pockets of water can crack important engine parts. To drain, check the owner’s manual for the location of all petcocks and open them. If water fails to drain freely from a petcock, it may be clogged with rust or debris. Remove the petcock and free the opening with a tool or coat hanger. Don’t forget also to drain the sea strainer, seacock body, and water lift muffler, if installed. The other choice, which we prefer, is to fill the cooling system with antifreeze. This is better for the engine and less likely to result in freeze damage. To winterize the engine with antifreeze, you’ll need a five-gallon bucket, and enough antifreeze for your engine and related plumbing (at least two gallons). If your engine takes a lot of antifreeze, you might also need a helper to add antifreeze to the bucket as needed. To circulate antifreeze through the engine: Fill a five-gallon bucket with undiluted non-toxic antifreeze. Have additional antifreeze handy if you know your boat takes more than that or if you’ve never winterized before. You can use any leftovers in the boat’s plumbing systems. If the boat is in the water, close the intake seacock. Remove the raw water intake hose from the seacock (this is sometimes difficult, as hose clamps and hoses may be mechanically frozen in place) and insert the end into the antifreeze in the bucket. Start the engine and run at idle until antifreeze discharges from the exhaust outlet for 30 seconds or more. Secure the intake hose back on the seacock.Secure the intake hose back on the seacock. Two types of antifreeze There are two types of antifreeze. One is the common automotive antifreeze like Prestone. It’s great for cars, but not good for outboard engines. Because automotive-type antifreeze is highly toxic, we’ll need to use a non-toxic variety for this application. That way it can be used more safely, in case some of it ends up in storm drains or the water where you use your boat. This less-toxic antifreeze is made from propylene glycol. West Marine’s Pure Oceans brand antifreeze is premium “virgin” antifreeze, meaning it has not been recycled. It also has corrosion inhibitors to protect the engine and cooling system. Three levels of concentration With -50, -60 and -100 degree antifreezes available, which should you choose? For use in winterizing your engine, we recommend the highest concentration available, the -100. Why use this product when the temperature never dips below -50°F? Simply because there’s always some leftover residual water inside the engine, and that dilutes the antifreeze you pour in. What goes in as -50 may not come out as -50, so that the resulting freezing point may be much higher than the rated temperature. A final note about non-toxic propylene glycol antifreeze concerns its “slush point,” which is plus 11°F for the -50 antifreeze. Slushing is OK and will not harm your engine or other systems. For more technical info about understanding burst point and freeze point, and about our West Marine Antifreeze, click on the link at the bottom of this article. Some experts advise you to remove the impeller from the raw water pump, lubricate it with Vaseline petroleum jelly, and put it back in the pump. Then replace the cover to the pump housing, but leave the cover screwed in place loosely. This prevents the impeller from sticking to the pump housing. You can also remove the impeller until spring, so that its vanes do not “take a set.” Either way, leave an easy-to-see note to remind yourself to replace the impeller and/or tighten the cover in the spring. For more on how to service the impeller in your water pump, click here. Check the exhaust system Break the exhaust loose from the water lift muffler or exhaust manifold and inspect for carbon buildup or corrosion. Take the raw water injection hose off the injection nipple and see if it has become blocked by debris or scale. Inspect hoses Check all hoses for evidence of softness, bulging or cracking. Pay extra attention to the hot side of the exhaust and cooling systems. Check all of the hose clamps to be sure they are tight, and look for signs of corrosion. Seal engine openings Seal all of the openings that go into the engine to prevent the damp air from getting inside. Make caps out of plastic containers and tape to cover the air inlet, transmission and crankcase breathers and exhaust outlets. Leave a note for yourself listing all the openings you have sealed, so you’ll remember to uncap them in the spring. Miscellaneous jobs If the boat will be stored in the water, you should tighten the stuffing box to eliminate all dripping, and of course leave a prominent reminder note so you’ll remember to loosen it in the spring. Inspect the motor mounts, and check their flexible rubber elements for softening caused by leaks of oil or diesel fuel. Lube all grease points on the engine. Remove control cables from their housings and coat them with grease. Note all damage you found in your inspections, or needed repair or maintenance. Get the repairs done before spring, if possible. Touch-up paint, remove rust, clean up grease. These small items are easy to neglect in the rush of recommissioning! WUXI, China, Aug. 25, 2016 /PRNewswire/ -- LiqTech International, Inc. (NYSE MKT: LIQT), a clean technology company that manufactures and markets highly specialized filtration products and systems, and Kailong High Technology Co. Ltd. announced today that they have entered into a letter of intent to establish a diesel particulate filter company in China. The agreement includes a technology transfer fee of $1.5 million, which is payable upon achievement of certain milestones, and a royalty of $2.25 per liter of diesel particulate filters ("DPF"), which could generate $2.25 million in royalty revenue in 2018 and $4.5 million in royalty revenue in 2019 if the joint venture company achieves Kailong's projections. Kailong believes the market potential for high quality emission control systems is significant in China and together with LiqTech could scale to a capacity of 2 million liters in Silicon Carbide DPF to serve the Chinese and international market. The New China 6 standard for diesel vehicle emissions will likely put China on the forefront of emission standards in the world creating the need for better DPF in China. LiqTech will own 30% of the company and invest $4 million in the joint venture company over a 2-year period. Kailong will invest a minimum of $2.5 million in LiqTech, conditional to Chinese government approval. In the event that government approval is not obtained, the letter of intent will terminate. In addition, the letter of intent is conditional on execution of definitive agreements. Zang Zhicheng, Chairman of Kailong, stated, "In the past 15 years, Kailong has established a strong business platform in China for Selective Catalytic Reduction ("SCR") Systems for the diesel vehicle industry. We have been planning to enter into Silicon Carbide ("SIC") production and have had serious discussions with companies in Italy, Japan and South Korea. We have ultimately chosen LiqTech as our partner because of its leadership in SIC technology and its extensive knowledge in working with SIC. We believe that not only for the near term opportunity, but also for the future development of industry leading technology, LiqTech is the right partner. Kailong and LiqTech intend to work closely in sharing Kailong's experience in China and LiqTech's experience in SIC in developing the DPF market in China." Mr. Aldo Petersen, Chairman of LiqTech, noted, "LiqTech has a long history in the DPF Market. The DPF market in China has been in development for a number of years and we are very impressed by the strong focus that the Chinese Government has on Emission Standards. We believe that the DPF market in China will develop rapidly over the next several years, but to be successful, LiqTech believes the right partner is necessary. We believe we have found that partner in Kailong and are very optimistic about the long-term future of the new company. It will take 12-18 months to establish the new facility, but with our current capacity, LiqTech can service Kailong until the new company can service the DPF market in China." About Kailong High Technology Co. Ltd Kailong High Tech was founded in 2001 and is located in Wuxi, the well-known southern city with three-thousand year history. Kailong is a high tech enterprise providing research and development, production, sales and after-sales service and is the leading unit of the diesel SCR exhaust gas post processing working group of the National Internal Combustion Engine Standardization Technology Committee. Kailong develops and produces high-tech products for vehicles and off-road diesel engines, including SCR exhaust post processing systems, diesel particulate filters (DPF), CNG/LNG/LPG postprocessors, exhaust treatment devices for tunnel/industrial stoves, vehicle exhaust heating systems, engine smart temperature-control-cooling systems, centralized lubrication systems for passenger-carrying chassis and eddy current retarders. The company also provides system solutions satisfying the discharge standard of European VI for customers. In addition to its headquarters, the company also owns Kailong Institute of Technology, Kailong Lanfeng New Material Technology Co., Ltd., Jiangsu Kailong Baodun Power Technology Co., Ltd., Changan Branch and Wuxi Kairui Sensor Technology Co., Ltd. The total investment is RMB 550 million Yuan with more than 1,300 employees. The company owns 15 accessory centres including Beijing, Shanghai, Chongqing, Dongbei, Weichai and 218 special maintenance service stations. Recently, the company established cooperative relationships with numerous customers including Weichai, Yuchai, Xichai, Shangchai, Deutz, Cursor, Jiangxi Isuzu Motors, Nanjing IVECO, Yunnei, Quanchai and Shangyihong. |
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dieselgenerator 存档
July 2022
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